Everyone wants to be able to tear their marker down to the bare bones.  While this can get a lot of people in trouble, it is still a very good skill to have.  Naturally, you will need tools to disassemble your marker.  So make sure that you have everything first, it will save headaches down the road.  You will need a full set of standard allen keys, a 12 sided ¼ inch socket and socket wrench, a valve tool, a dental pick, an adjustable crescent wrench, needle nose pliers, a hammer, and a small punch.  You may encounter a lot of locktite along the way.  If you cant unscrew something easily, its probably locktited, so either use brute force, or run hot water over the part for about twenty seconds (I suggest the second option).

     The first step is to remove the easy stuff, basically the stuff that doesn’t require heavy use of tools.  Remove the bolt and bolt pin, and then unscrew the cocking rod.  Next, use your 1/8 allen key to remove the two screws holding the trigger frame to the body.  Lift the trigger frame up slightly, and slide away from the actuator rod.  Now, unscrew the screw holding on the beaver tail.  If you have an AKA, MacDev, or another older style velocity adjuster, it will be free to be removed.  Unscrew the back block from the pump arm next.  Unscrew the velocity adjuster (if it isn’t already free).  It generally uses a 3/16 allen wrench.  Finally, the mainspring should just fall out of the back of the marker.

     Next, undo the setscrew in the actuator collar farthest from the 3 way.  Unscrew the actuator rod, and remove it through the hole in the ASA.  Now, unscrew the second setscrew on the collar, and remove the collar from the 3 way rod.  After that, unscrew the pump arm from the ram shaft.  Now, you can unscrew the front block and pneumatics as one solid piece.  Normally, a 3/16 allen key fits the front block screw (at least on the 2k cockers and newer).  To break down the front block, you need to first remove the hoses from the pneumatics.  If your hoses still have the top hat clamps on them, use a pair of needle nose pliers to gently pry them off of the nipple.  Now, grasp the hose just above the nipple with the pliers, and apply a constant pulling pressure on the hose.  They should pop off with minimal effort, but if they don’t wiggle the hose slightly while pulling away from the nipple.

     Now that the hoses are all off, you can start removing the pneumatics.  First unscrew the ram, as it is the easiest to remove.  Next remove the pneumatic reg.  On almost all pneumatic regulators (other than the old Rock, and the Sledgehammer) you need to remove the nipple before removing it.  Use a small adjustable crescent wrench, or a pair of needle nose pliers to carefully unscrew it.  With the nipple off, use your crescent wrench on the fitting connected to the front block.  WGP pneumatic regulators after 2000 use a 9/16 size wrench, while most others use a 7/16 size wrench (standard size for all 1/8 NPT fittings).  The 3 way just unscrews from the front block.

     To remove the hammer, insert a 1/8 allen key into the top access hole.  You may need to reinstall the cocking rod in order to jiggle the hammer back and forth so the allen key engages.  Turn the allen key counter clockwise to retract the lug into the hammer.  When that is done, remove the allen key and tilt the marker back, the hammer should just slide out.  Now, to get to the valve, you first need to remove the jam nut.  Take the valve tool and insert the end with the bumper into the lower tube.  When the valve tool engages the jam nut, unscrew it (you may need some leverage to unscrew it).  Turn over the body, and use your 5/32 allen screw to remove the valve set screw.  Now, the valve, cup seal, and valve spring should all slide out when you tip the body back.

     All that is left to remove from the body is the ASA.  This is where you use the 12 sided ¼” socket wrench.  A small collection of ASA screws use allen keys, but they are few and far between.  All you do to remove the screw is unscrew it like a standard screw.  After the screw is out, just pull off the ASA, and remove the o-ring that was between it and the body.

     The last thing to do is break down the trigger frame.  To break down a sliding frame, first take off the grips by removing all of the screws.  Next locate the sear pin, and gently tap it out.  You’ll probably need a hammer and a small screwdriver or punch.  The sear will pop out once the pin is out, and the sear spring can be taken out too.  If the frame has a safety, it will need to be removed before the trigger plate can be taken out.  To remove the safety, use the pliers to grab the C clip, and just pull it off of the safety.  It will take a strong grip and a good deal of force, but it will come off.  After the clip is off, the safety will slide out.  Be sure to collect the small spring in the top of the frame if you plan on using the safety again.  To remove the trigger shoe, use the .050” allen key to loosen the set screws, and then pull it off.  Pull back and up on the trigger plate to dislodge it.  You can then just pull it out.  Normally, the trigger return spring will stay basically in its channel, just put in a small allen key to fish out the trigger return spring.