The first thing people want to know how to do to their
autococker is time it.
There is always fear and apprehension about the task,
which is generally caused by popular misconception. With practice, timing
your marker becomes no more difficult than putting on a
barrel, or filling a hopper. If you are not
familiar with timing your marker, I suggest that you read over
the article to the end, and then come back and take it step by
step. Its always
easier to undertake a task when you know completely what you
need to do. While this is a step by step guide to rather
conservative timing, you can come back and pick and choose
according to your needs at the time, and it will still
work.
Back
Block
The next step is to set the back block distance. This step sets the
back block so that everything else can run smoothly. You don’t want the
back block too close to the body, otherwise it slams into it,
damaging both, and creating a ruckus. You also don’t want
the back block too far away from the body because then the ram
takes the brunt of all the forces being moved around. The best way to set
the back block is to screw it into the pump arm, until it is
flush against the body, then unscrew it one turn. This setup creates the
best of both worlds.
It doesn’t let the ram take the brunt of the force, but
likewise doesn’t have the block unnecessarily hit the
body.
Cocking
Rod
The length of the cocking rod controls how much bolt
clears the breach when the hammer lug catches on the
sear. Of course,
when the marker is aired up, you need the bolt to clear the
feed tube. The
best way to set this process is with the marker degassed. You need to adjust the
knob on the back of the cocking rod to adjust how much bolt is
visible in the feed tube. You want the tiniest
sliver of bolt visible in the feed tube when the gun is
cocked, and degassed.
To adjust this, turn the knob on the cocking rod
clockwise to make more of the bolt visible in the feed tube,
and counter clockwise to make less of the bolt visible. The reason you want a
small bit of bolt, is because if you have too much bolt, the
ram ends up doing more work than it needs to, and has to push
against an already compressed main spring. If you have none of the bolt showing in the feed tube,
then the ram ends up pushing too far, and it could lead to
double feeding, and basically just more work than is
needed.
Hammer
Lug
First you
need to set how early the marker fires in the pull
sequence. On all
newer models, either with a round hole trigger plate, or hinge
trigger, you generally want the marker to release the hammer
in the first ¼ of the pull. On the older slotted
hole trigger plate, its recommended that the hammer be set to
release half way through the pull. To adjust the position
of the hammer lug you need to remove the bolt, and insert a
1/8 allen key into the whole in the sight rail. It may take some work
to get the allen key to fit into the hammer lug. Don’t get discouraged
if it takes you some time to slide the hammer back and forth
until you can get the allen key to engage. Once you get the allen key in, you need to either turn
it clockwise to make the lug longer, and make the release
later in the pull, or turn it counter clockwise to make the
lug shorter, and make the release earlier in the pull.
 
If your cocker was made before 1997, then you will not
have the top access hole. If this is the case,
then you are going to need to remove the trigger frame to
access the lug.
Now you turn the lug clockwise to make the marker fire
earlier, and counter clockwise to make the marker fire
later. It can
also be noted that most pro shops can drill the lug access
hole for a small fee, which is very worth it. **NOTE: this
process only applies if your marker does not
have the top access hole.
Actuator Rod
This is probably the most important and most common
part of timing.
It involves setting the length of the actuator rod to
actuate the 3 way at the proper time. This is what controls
the re-cocking of the marker. You want the marker to
cock long enough after firing to ensure that no air escapes up
the feed tube, causing blow back (which increases the chances
of chopping). If
the marker fires too late in the pull, it wont cock reliably,
leading to double feeding, which causes a mess as well. Generally speaking,
you want the marker to cock in the last ¼ pull. A good test for
blowback, is to place a small square of tissue paper over the
feed tube. If it
blows in any direction, then there is blow back present, and
you need to continue adjusting the distance between the firing
portion, and the 3 way actuation.
With the popularity of 3-oring style 3 ways
(the Bomb, and the PMP 3 ways) and hinge triggers it takes a
bit more explaining on how to adjust the 3 way. First, find the
description of your set up below and make sure the hoses are
set up correctly. Then, follow the directions for the
type of frame you have.
~Traditional 2 O-ring design (stock 3 way and those like it, and
the CT 3 way), OR
a Hinge
Trigger w/ 3 O ring 3 way:
(click for
example)
~3 O ring design
(Shocktech Bomb/DYE PMP), OR Hinge
Trigger (But not both):
(click for
example)
Slider Frame:
This is the
timing that has been learned over the years, and what everyone is used to, but
with the invention of the hinge frame, its becoming a bit forgotten. If your 3 way is
actuating too early (which causes blowback) you need to
lengthen the timing rod by turning by turning the actuator
collar counter clockwise after loosening the set screw closest
to the trigger.
And if the 3 way is actuating too late in the pull, you
need to shorten the actuator rod, by adjusting the actuator
collar clockwise.
Hinge
Frame:
This is the
newer style of timing, as these products are relatively new. T hese frames lead to timing the 3 way opposite
to convention, and what everyone used to instruct. If the 3 way is
actuating too early in the pull (and causing gross blow back),
you need to make the 3 way actuate later, and so the actuator
rod needs to be shorter.
In order to do this, you need to loosen the set screw
on the actuating collar closes to the trigger, and turn the
collar clockwise.
If the 3 way is actuating too late in the pull (which
can cause inconsistent cocking) you need to lengthen the
actuator rod, so the 3 way actuates earlier. To do this, turn the
actuator collar counter clockwise after loosening the set
screw nearest the trigger.
Suction
Timing
Now, many people are interested in suction timing in
their marker.
After a couple years of experimenting, and observing, I
have found that suction timing usually occurs when the firing,
and 3 way actuation are almost right on top of each
other. The theory
behind this is, that while the air is moving down the barrel
from the shot, the breach is on its way open. The air moving down
the barrel creates a vacuum in the breach, which sucks air
from the hopper into it.
It is still open for debate if this actually has any
benefits, but it is still good for bragging
rights. |
